MARCH 15th, 2010 to July 29, 2010
Things to do in the near future:
- Set the body on the chassis.
- Adjust the position of the body on the chassis.
- Repair the screw holes for the top.
- Install the top bows.
- Repair the metal on the bottom of the rusted left door.
- Repair the metal on the top of the cowling on the left and right sides.
- Fit and install the windshield brackets.
- Fit and install the windshield.
- Fit the top bows to the windshield.
I picked up the body tub with an overhead lift, then set it onto the chassis. To do this I had to remove the rear wheels. Once the body tub was back on the chassis the rear wheels were replaced.
July 29th, 2010 to January 10th, 2012
I did not work on TC-1576. Sorry but that is the truth. From March to July we were busy with traveling and other stuff. On July 27th, 2010 I traded my 1945 Stampe (open cockpit biplane) for a 1931 Fleet (open cockpit biplane). On the way home with the Fleet, we did an emergency landing in a melon field near Manzanola, Colorado and flipped upside down. From then until September of 2011 I worked on repairing and doing a mild restoration on the Fleet. Here is a link to that story:
From September of 2011 until January 10th, 2012 I have been building and selling VW Steering Kits, AND repairing my wife's Cobra. "A guys gotta do, what a guys gotta do!" Now finally I am back to work on TC-1576!
The wood on the left and the right side where the top bows are mounted to the chassis with wood screws, was stripped out. The wood still seemed to be strong and in good condition aside from the discoloring. The following pictures below will explain how I fixed this area.
There was an area on the bottom rear of the left door which had been badly rusted through. The area was a mess so I decided to replace the steel. The following pictures explain how I did this.
The following pictures show how I fitted the doors. They do not show the adjustable door straps which my friend Sherwood Parker sells. These straps make adjusting the doors and getting a good fit much easier.
The next area of concern was the top piece of the scuttle. This part normally rusts along the bottom edge where the windshield brackets attach. I decided to replace some of the steel here also. Again I replaced some of the steel and the following pictures show this and the fitting of the windshield brackets.
The last thing I needed to do before painting was locate the fender lamps. To do this I mounted the headlights and used the inside fender braces. When aligning the lights I discovered that my left fender braces would locate the light about an inch further back from the front tip of the fender than on the right fender. I solved this problem by removing the brace and bending it an inch further forward. This done the two lights lined up as they should. The holes were drilled and the lights mounted.
January 10th, 2012 to March 4th, 2012
When the time came to do the radiator, I took the radiator itself to a radiator shop in Denver and had the original 3 core replaced with a new 4 core. This created some minor problems when I put it into the shell and mounted it on the car. The clearance between the radiator core and the front of the shell was slightly less than the original. When I mounted the MG emblem on the radiator I added some JB weld to the inside and shimmed the emblem so that it did not actually touch the false nose anywhere except in the center. I kept adjusting the thickness of the shim until there was at least a couple of thousands of an inch clearance all around the emblem. Finally when I mounted the emblem I put a generous amount of clear silicone on the inside to stick the emblem itself to the false nose. This relieved all stress on the emblem itself and I am in hopes that it will remain in place for the life of the car. I was also careful to check the clearance between the radiator fan and the fender brace. I also used an MGB 6 bladed fan. The final thing I did was to omit the two center radiator slats. Take a close look at the close up of the emblem and the final picture in this group and see if you can tell.
Ladies and Gentlemen
THE RESURRECTION OF TC-1576!
My front fenders had extensive work by two friends prior to my mounting them. Some of the original holes were lost in this process. Mounting the fenders became more than just bolting them on since I had to locate some of those holes. One fender still had most of its holes so I was able to get it on the car in what I believe is the correct position. The other fender had to be mounted to match. Some of the holes where the fender and splash apron were missing so I made a steel strap with the mounting holes drilled. I located the holes in this strap by using the cars frame. I then had to estimate the location of the first hole. Once I had the first hole then the strap was mounted in place of the splash apron and the rest of the holes were easy to find. My car had new sides on the body tub so there were no fender or running board holes. These I located and drilled myself.
The gas tank was previously sealed and I found some surface rust on the outside, but the inside is very clean. I noticed that on the left side the fender mounting hole was stripped out. To fix this I used a piece of steel strap. First I marked where the threads needed to be located. I know it appears slightly off center in the first two pictures, but rather than use the existing hole I placed a bolt into the hole and used the bolt to locate the center. I then removed the old blind nut by grinding it out of the hole. Next I took a piece of steel strap that fit into the bracket very snugly and peened over one end of this flat steel strap and ground down three sides. The purpose of this was to create a lip on the top of the strap that would hold the strap in place when assembling the car. I did not want to weld on this since the inside of the gas tank has been sealed and welding would damage the sealer. I then slid the strap into the bracket and located the correct position for the hole. Once I knew where the hole was supposed to be I removed the strap, drilled and tapped it and put it back in. One of the end plate mounting holes is also stripped. I am planning to fix that with JB weld.
I discovered that my rear fenders were not a matched set. Who would have thought that there are different rear fenders on these cars? I initially decided to use them since the differences was not at all noticeable. I started with the left rear and spent a considerable amount of time trying to repair and fit it. Once the repairs and fitting were the best I could do I moved to the right rear. It was apparent that the right rear fender was made from a heavier steel and it was indeed a much nicer fender. Mounting it went very quickly. While on a trip to Phoenix I found a much better left rear fender from Doug Pelton at "FROM THE FRAME UP" and bought it. This new fender was made of the heavier steel and came much closer to matching my right rear fender. It had a considerable amount of rust pitting and holes, but this was all where the fender does not show and I knew I could replace that steel and have a great fender. The final set of pictures in this group show the repair of that fender. I put it on the car and it fit much better than the first left rear fender.
The bonnets! What can I say here. I have seen so many TC's that have poor bonnet fit and it has been a frustrating point for me. I decided that the first thing I would do is locate where the bonnets want to be. I mounted the latches and brackets on the car and bonnets. There was almost 3/4" movement in my bonnets front to rear. By latching the bonnets in place I was able to shift them back and forth until I found where the latches (on the bonnet) and the brackets (on the car frame) matched. Finding the center of this I clamped the bonnets into place. I then marked where I needed to add steel to the ends of the bonnet pieces and where I needed to remove steel. Finally I set out to add/remove steel where needed. This was a time consuming process, particularly on the top pieces at the center where the hinge strip is. In the end I am very happy that I did this! There will be some body work required to hide the welding, but the end result was that my bonnets close very accurately and the latches catch and hook as they are supposed to.
For those of you who are faint of heart and/or are members of the dreaded Originality Police (OP) skip the next set of pictures. I committed a sin! I cut and modified original steel! I did this modification on a spare right bonnet side. My original side was not harmed in this process. For the sake of originality I am going to paint and keep both right sides. This modified one is for use with a pair of Velocity Stacks that I happen to like the looks of. When closing the original bonnet with the Velocity Stacks in place there was insufficient clearance for the forward stack. I first cut the hole and carefully cut the top of the first three louvers out. I made the scoop from a piece of sheet metal by bending it around a piece of pipe and hammering it into shape. Initially the scoop was not deep enough to allow air to flow into the Velocity Stack so I increased the depth of the scoop and moved it slightly up. The piece cut from the top of the louvers was moved down and welded into place. Then the scoop was welded into place. I trimmed the front of the scoop to compliment the contour of the front fender. This project will require a substantial amount of finishing and body work prior to painting, but for an armature I am pleased with it so far.
Well, here is the car assembled and almost ready to disassemble and paint. There is still a lot of work to do, but once the body tub is painted I am thinking that it will go fairly quickly. Once it is painted then I will begin final assembly.
While on the trip to Phoenix, Anne and I saw a MG-TA that was painted in duo tone green. We absolutely fell in love with the colors and have decided to match them. I am fully aware that TC's were not duo tone, but I like the look so well that I just don't care. The last picture on this page is the TA that we liked.