IT BEGINS

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MODIFICATIONS TO TC-1576

MANY MADE IN THE INTEREST OF SAFETY

AUGUST 17, 2009: Today about noon I pronounced the Shop ready for it's first customer! ME!!!

Before I could get the car in however I had to replace the spindles and enlist the assistance of my wife. It is down hill from the garage on the main level of our house to the lower level (walk out), thus propulsion was not an issue. On the other hand STOPPING WAS! It was for this purpose that I enlisted my wife. The car has brakes at this point, but no steering. Steering was my job. Well, anyway it was exciting! At long last TC-1576 is in her new shop. Tomorrow the first order of business is STEERING!

(The pictures are thumbnails, click on one for a full size)

AUGUST 18,2009:

Today I removed the body and fender brackets and started work on the VW steering by reversing the steering box. Note the second picture. The box on the left has been reversed, the box on the right is stock. In the third picture you can see the brake bracket. I have noticed that the rivets on TC-1576 on an angle, whereas the same rivets on TC-8192 are vertical.

August 19 - 22, 2009:

OK, I discovered that the question I had above was a figment of my imagination. The rivets are the same on all TC's. There are no vertical rivets. I sent an email to the guy who bought TC-8192 and he confirmed that they are not vertical, they are on an angle. What is interesting is that apparently on later cars the bracket was both welded and riveted. On my car #1576 the bracket is just riveted. Now on to productive work.

I spent a couple of days moving most of the parts from the airport to my shop. I didn't want to be running back and forth every day to get something.

It took me most of a day to get the engine stand modified to accept the XPAG engine.

Next I had to mock up the stock steering to determine where the end of the steering column and the end of the steering shaft should be since the VW steering box does not mount in exactly the same spot as the stock BC box. Therefore the column and shaft are a different length. I marked on the frame the point directly below the end of each. When I get to the column and shaft for the VW conversion I will need these marks to make the end of the new parts in the same position as the old ones. 

The engine was overhauled many years ago and is patiently awaiting installation.

Did I mention that I had to take some time out to go with the wife to find a new dryer? Day and a half gone finding one, getting it home, and installing it. The old one is now in the garage! It works, but takes a long time to dry clothes. It is also 20+ years old. I guess it was time to get a new one.

August 23, 2009:

I spent the day today fabricating parts for the VW steering. I then mocked it up to see if it looked like it will work. I am thinking that I need to get the engine and transmission in next. I may then have to remake the steering bracket. Only time will tell for sure.

I gotta stop early as we are going to some friends house for a birthday party. It's OK, the guy has a TD. :>' }

August 24 - 27, 2009

Well, I took time out to build an overhead hoist. Actually took three full days to figure it out, build it, raise it up, and get it working. Here are some pictures:

After I got the hoist working I picked up the engine and engine stand. I wanted to know how much the beam was flexing with the weight added. Total flex at the approximate center of the beam was only 0.040" I expected much more than that. The hoist itself is rated for 1300 pounds, but I don't expect to lift more that a few hundred pounds at a time. Mostly engines and transmissions.

I did not want to drill holes in our existing house support beams so I clamped the hoist beams to it. Overkill, but it is held in place with 16 1/2 - 16 Grade 8 bolts! I used two 4" beams and mounted the hoist between them and thereby was able to get the top of the hoist within two inches of the ceiling. I will build a trolley for the hoist in time, but for now it is attached in a fixed position.

The only problem with this hoist is that it is too fast! There are times when that would be handy, but if it ran slower it would allow for more precise lifting and lowering.

The next step is to put the engine in the frame! First I have to install the clutch and attach the transmission to the engine. OHHHHHH BOY!

August 28 - 31, 2009

I decided to do a mock up before actually installing the engine. That way I could finalize the VW steering project. I have spent the last few days assembling the mock up. OK! I'll fess up. We went to a Corvette Club Annual Picnic yesterday. So I didn't get anything done yesterday.

I mounted the VW steering box as far forward as I could and still have adequate clearance around the box and Pittman Arm. One thing that I am doing different from others is that I am using the holes from the two rivets which hold the brake bracket onto the frame to help hold the bracket for the VW steering. I believe this makes the plate unnecessary, however I am using the plate, just to be safe. First the rivets were removed, then the holes enlarged to 3/8". I am also using 2" bar stock, rather than 2" tubing for the VW mount. This allows me to tap directly into the back of the bar stock and run 3/8" Grade 8 Allen Head Bolts through the frame in place of the original rivets and bolt directly into the VW bracket. In the third picture you see the Grade 8 Allen Head bolts that are screwed into the bar stock.. When finished these bolts will hold the brake bracket and the VW bracket. Also when finished the bar stock will be welded to the plate both front and rear (inside and outside). All in all this should make a very stout VW steering bracket. One advantage of this method is that the bolt used in other VW kits forward of the 2" round tube is unnecessary and omitted. This means that there is no need for an additional hole in the frame of the car. To convert the car back to BC steering all one would have to do is remove the VW steering. Replace it with the original BC steering and replace the two brake bracket rivets.

I have also spent some time over the past few days making additional brackets for the VW steering. It is my intent to make several of these and make them available to those who wish to convert their steering. For me this is a safety issue. The VW parts are simply newer, stronger, and therefore safer than the original BC steering. Using this method of converting to VW steering also allows an owner to easily convert back to the original BC steering and regain the originality of the car.

(The pictures are thumbnails, click on one for a full size)

Clearance between the steering column and the starter is: 0.160"

This is pretty tight, but I believe it is adequate. I may make a short steel arm for the battery cable to attach to. One minor advantage to the VW steering is that the column is removable, thus allowing much easier removal of the starter. I should also say that I believe you can change the flywheel on a TC to a flywheel from a TD and use a TD starter, which is smaller than a TC starter. This would improve the clearance considerably.

Clearance between the Pittman arm and the exhaust down pipe is: between 3/8" and 1/2". This is a bit of an estimate since the down pipe is not securely attached for the purpose of my mock up. 

The finished VW steering box bracket

That's it for now.

SEPTEMBER 1, 2009

Here is my question. On the side of the transmission there is an arm which is attached to a shaft which is what disengages the clutch. I just finished putting a new clutch and pressure plate on the flywheel. I then stabbed the transmission and bolted it into place. The picture below was take with no pressure on the clutch, but the throw out bearing is touching the  appropriate point on the pressure plate. Something looks to me like it is not right here. The stop on the arm is less than 1/4 inch from the bolt head. This simply is not enough travel. I don't believe there is anything wrong inside the bell housing so I am wondering about the stop. More clearance could be achieved by putting the jam nut on the back side of the stop. More clearance could also be achieved by omitting the lock washer under the transmission to block bolt. I could also find a bolt with a thinner head. Would you mind, please taking a look at your transmission and telling me what is different? What's wrong with this picture?

Thank  you for your help.

THANK YOU BOB GRUNAU:

Apparently there are "at least" three different offsets for the throw-out bearing. The middle one is what was in my car. The one on the right is what is in my car now. How would any of us who have not driven these cars for 40 years have known that there were three. Thank  you Bob for sharing from your vast storehouse of knowledge.

SEPTEMBER 1, 2009

OK, the engine and transmission are bolted into the frame!

(The pictures are thumbnails, click on one for a full size)

Let's see, what is left to make the chassis move under it's own power?

1. Fill engine and transmission with oil.
2. Install the top of the transmission.
3. Install the starter.
4. Install the battery.
5. Install battery cables.
6. Install the distributor.
7. Install the plugs and plug wires.
8. Install the water pump.
9. Install the generator.
10. Install the fan belt.
11. Install the radiator.
12. Install the radiator hoses.
13. Fill the radiator and engine with water/antifreeze.
14. Install the drive shaft.
15. Hook up the clutch linkage.
16. Install the VW steering Box
17. Finish the Shaft and Column on the VW steering.
18. Build and install a drag link.
19. Set the valves.
20. Set the timing.
21. Install the carburetors.
22. Install the carburetor linkage.
23. Adjust the carburetors. 
24. Install the oil lines.
25. Create and install a temporary fuel tank.
26. Install a temporary oil pressure gauge.
27. Install the valve cover and tappet cover.
28. Build and install temporary seats and floor boards.
29. Install the exhaust down pipe.
30. Create and install temporary wiring and an ignition switch.
31. SAY A PRAYER!
32. CLEAR THE ROAD AHEAD AND ROLL!

I'm tired! Have probably forgotten things on this list, but will add them as I figure them out. Future updates I will update the list by adding things forgotten and deleting things done.

I am hoping to make her run next week. Time will tell....

For those of you who don't already know. There is a British Motoring Conclave in Denver on September 20th. The goal is to trailer her to the Conclave, back off the trailer and drive her in! With no body, of course! We stripped her down for the "hill climb" don't cha know!

SEPTEMBER 2 - 6, 2009

Done since last post:

1. Installed the starter.
2. Installed the water pump.
3. Hooked up the clutch linkage.
4. Installed the VW steering Box
5. Finished the Shaft and Column on the VW steering.
6. Made a temporary drag link.
7. Installed the carburetors.
8. Installed the carburetor linkage.

What is left to make the chassis move under it's own power?

1. Fill engine and transmission with oil.
2. Install the top of the transmission.
3. Install the battery.
4. Install battery cables.
5. Install the distributor.
6. Install the plugs and plug wires.
7. Install the generator.
8. Install the fan belt.
9. Install the radiator.
10. Install the radiator hoses.
11. Fill the radiator and engine with water/antifreeze.
12. Install the drive shaft.
13. Set the valves.
14. Set the timing.
15. Adjust the carburetors. 
16. Install the oil lines.
17. Create and install a temporary fuel tank.
18. Install a temporary oil pressure gauge.
19. Install the valve cover and tappet cover.
20. Build and install temporary seats and floor boards.
21. Install the exhaust down pipe.
22. Create and install temporary wiring and an ignition switch.
23. SAY A PRAYER!
24. CLEAR THE ROAD AHEAD AND ROLL!

Here are a few current pictures:

I got the steering all done, reached up, turned the wheel, and to my surprise I had over an inch of play. I had adjusted the box on the bench, so I felt pretty sure that the box was not the problem. Rather than make a complete new steering shaft I had decided to use an original one which I had on hand. The original steering shaft was actually made from two pieces. The shaft itself and a top piece, where the splines are. Originally these two pieces were joined sliding the splined part onto the shaft then running a pin through both pieces. The pin was then welded over and ground down so it would never come out. Somehow the pin or something inside had become loose. I fixed the problem by simply welding the splined part to the shaft.  

Here is a picture of her as she sits right now. Is that a cool steering wheel or what? I put this wheel on the car temporarily so I could steer it. My plan is to remove all the plastic and wrap the wheel with twine. I will then varnish the twine, sand it, and wrap it again. By repeating this process I will eventually build up the wheel and believe it will have a very old time racing look.

I found the velocity stacks on Ebay some time ago. I do have a stock air cleaner which I will use when I drive the car, but for now and for the Conclave on the 20th, I think the velocity stacks will do just fine.

By the way I didn't get as much done as I would have it my wife's birthday had come along last Friday. She is worth the time, and far more important that the car, so I did not work for a couple of days.

Now I am going to have to get after it to have the chassis drivable by the 20th. Unless I run into some great problem I believe I will make it. I am expecting to have the engine running later this week.

SEPTEMBER 7 - 10, 2009

Done since last post:

1. Filled engine and transmission with oil.
2. Installed the top of the transmission.
3. Installed the generator.
4. Installed the fan belt.
5. Installed the radiator.
6. Installed the radiator hoses.
7. Installed the drive shaft.
8. Set the valves.
9. Installed a temporary oil pressure gauge.
10. Installed the valve cover and tappet cover.
11. Installed the exhaust down pipe.
12. Installed the distributor.
13. Installed the oil lines.

What is left to make the chassis move under it's own power?

1. Install the battery.
2. Install battery cables.
3. Install the plugs and plug wires.
4. Fill the radiator and engine with water/antifreeze.
5. Create and install a temporary fuel tank.
6. Create and install temporary wiring and an ignition switch.
7. Set the timing.
8. Adjust the carburetors. 
9. Build and install temporary seats and floor boards.
10. SAY A PRAYER!
11. CLEAR THE ROAD AHEAD AND ROLL!

As you can tell by the list of things left Numbers 1 to 6 are what I need to do to make it run! Tomorrow I will go and buy a battery and cables. I primed the engine with oil this evening by cranking it by hand. First I primed the oil pump and filled the oil filter. It took quite a few turns, but doing it in this manner is better for the bearings. I never did get any oil pressure, but I did get oil coming out of the oil holes in the rockers, so something is happening. Tomorrow after I get the battery I will crank the engine with the starter for a bit until I get oil pressure. I will do this without the spark plugs in to reduce load on the bearings.

Here are a couple of pictures:

(The pictures are thumbnails, click on one for a full size)

If it runs tomorrow I will post a picture of it running!

SEPTEMBER 11 - 12, 2009

The last couple of days have been trying!

Done since last post:

1. Installed the battery.
2. Installed battery cables.
3. Installed the plugs and plug wires.
4. Filled the radiator and engine with water/antifreeze.
5. Created and installed a temporary fuel tank.
6. Created and installed temporary wiring and an ignition switch.

The first problem was a water lead from a soft plug. It was the large one right behind the exhaust manifold. So in addition to the above I got a soft plug/freeze plug/core plug (call it what you wish) and installed it last night. Today I was ready to try to start it and had major carburetor leaks! First leaking at the fuel inputs. Tightened them, then leaked around the jets. Got some new gaskets and redid them. Finally at 20:45 (that 8:45 PM) I pulled the makeshift starter lever. She started on the third try and then just happily purred along. Heck I didn't even have to adjust the timing. When I stab a distributor I adjust the points, then with the engine on TDC I move the distributor till the point just begin to open, then advance just a few degrees. I must have been pretty close, cause she started and ran just fine. I will of course reset the valves next time she is hot and will set the timing next time I run her. I will also adjust the carburetors soon.

Part of what makes this so exciting is that the engine was overhauled back in the 1970's. Since that time it has not run. It has not even had oil in her. It has just quietly sat on various engine stands, in various garages, waiting for me to come along. If engines can feel I am sure it is happy tonight.

The British Car Conclave is in Denver next Sunday. I am planning to trailer her to the Conclave then drive her from the trailer into the park. Normally there are over 600 British cars on hand. Weather permitting it should be a nice show.

To get her ready to drive I still have to do the following:

1. Set the timing.
2. Adjust the carburetors. 
3. Build and install temporary seats and floor boards.
4. SAY A PRAYER!
5. CLEAR THE ROAD AHEAD AND ROLL!

Here are a few pictures:

The red covered switch is the ignition switch and the pull lever below it is the starter pull. Can you guess what the steel is that the temp/oil pressure gauge is mounted in?

OK, here is a hint:

By the way, it has been raining here most of the day. Tomorrow is more of the same. Supposed to get better Monday. I am ready to go for a spin around the neighborhood!

Tonight, I feel like I have a TC again! Good feeling

SEPTEMBER 13 - 14, 2009

Done since last post:

1. Built and installed temporary seats and floor boards.

I did not work Sunday. We went to Denver to visit a friend. This morning I went to the airport and got the floorboards and a set of lovely old seats that I had. When I got home I set to installing the floor and seats. OK, the seats go with the steering wheel. Once everything was such that I could drive her, I DID! I cruised up the hill behind our house and waved at my wife through the window. For some reason she started laughing. Being a good sport however she came out and got in. Crazy woman! We then proceeded to buzz the neighborhood. You would not be surprised that we got a lot of strange looks, but it was fun, driving a TC again. Still much to do to her, but she moved under her own power again after more than 30 years!

Here are today's pictures:

Bud and Anne after the glorious maiden voyage:

The neighbors dog came over to play ball. I told my neighbor, Tom, that his dog was "the best dog that I ever had. He bought her, feeds her, gets her shots, puts her out, etc., and she comes over to play."

Back to the Barn!

Aren't these nice seats. They go with the steering wheel so well. Do you think leather conditioner would bring them back?

And the gas tank too. Holds all of one gallon. This car is a sprinter, not an endurance racer. :>' }

Between now and the Conclave I must do the following:

1. Set the timing.
2. Adjust the carburetors. 
3. SAY A PRAYER!
4. CLEAR THE ROAD AHEAD AND ROLL!

January 20, 2010

Well, friends, it has been awhile since I have been able to work on TC-1576, and I am afraid that the work that has been done has not been progress. There are times in life and in the restoration of a car when it becomes apparent that you must go back, sometimes way back to the beginning, to do it right. This has been one of those times. I have gone back to the beginning!

Back in September I had the car running and was able to drive it, but there was a serious problem with the chassis. An earlier owner had used a gray filling primer on the frame to make it smoother. The problem is that a very hard brittle paint was used over the gray filling primer which was very thick in some places. Every place where the frame was bumped with a wrench the paint popped off and left a gray mark. I finally decided that this was unacceptable. The only way to fix it is to remove all the paint on the frame. I began taking the car apart back in December and today have finally finished it. In the interim I have built almost 30 VW steering kits for other people. This project provided much needed funds to complete TC-1576 to a very nice standard.

Here is a picture of the frame as it sits today:

(The pictures are thumbnails, click on one for a full size)

Tomorrow morning the frame is going to a local shop to be sandblasted!

Since this is an early frame and since there is a point where the early frames are known to crack and while it is clean and before I paint I am going to strengthen that area with an additional gusset. Once that is done and it is repainted I will begin reassembling it. This time I will  doing it as the final build. It is my hope to get the chassis back to the stage it was in before our St Patrick's Day Parade here in Colorado Springs. That Parade is in mid March.

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